Information on different air duct cleaning methods

Power Vacuum/Air Sweep method: Average equipment value being used to perform an air duct cleaning: $50,000.00-$150,000.00 worth of machinery and equipment

According to NAIMA, this method of cleaning is the most thorough form of cleaning a ventilation or HVAC system to deliver the lowest particulate count exiting an HVAC system. Actual air studies by a reputable international organization, such as NAIMA, has conclusively proven that this in fact occurs in a ventilation system, which of coarse should be a no-brainer, because if particulate matter was merely stuck to the sidewalls of ductwork and did not in fact circulate, then mechanical engineers would have never invented a furnace filter. How many HVAC service technicians have instructed you to never use a furnace filter? Probably, not too many, right? That is because it has been known for several decades that dirt, dust and debris will always circulate in a forced air ventilation system. Fortunately, most people are not completely unaware of this problem and have realized that occasional HVAC system cleaning can produce very good indoor air quality results when performed thoroughly and correctly.

Now that we logically know that forced air systems, which moves air in a ventilation system not only moves the air inside of the ductwork, but the fine micron particulate matter that science had previously proven existed floating around with that same air, we can get on to the various cleaning methods that tries to tackle the build up problem that time will cause in a forced air ventilation system.

A raging debate between various companies world-wide tries to advertise and endorse their methods of cleaning to convince a consumer and potential customer that their method of cleaning is superior. Rather than writing a very obvious slanted article, I realized that simply stating what the advantages and disadvantages of each cleaning method is, would allow the consumer or potential customer to decide for themselves as to which cleaning method would best serve them. Yes, I can admit that every cleaning method has a clear advantage and disadvantage. Although I would love to make every consumer and or potential customer our customer, the reality is that many factors affect where a consumer or potential customer turns to for their indoor air quality needs.

Power Vacuum/Air Sweep method: Average equipment value being used to perform an air duct cleaning: $50,000.00-$150,000.00 worth of machinery and equipment.

This method of cleaning is the most expensive, thorough and risky form of cleaning out there. The machinery can cost anywhere from $50,000.00- $150,000.00. The cost to operate for the service provider is higher and if the technicians are not properly trained the risk of dusting out a house or breaking something in the house is greater.The power vacuum/air sweep method involves a powerful large diameter vacuum hose generally ranging in diameter from 8"-12" that moves anywhere from 3000 CFM - 26,000 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of negative air draw depending on the type of power vacuum machinery being used. Typically speaking, having power vacuum machines that moves anymore that 10,000 CFM is foolish, considering the fact that all ductwork is rated for a set amount of CFM based on the size of the ductwork through external static pressure ratings, velocity and ambience. I do have to admit that the more power a vacuum has, the cooler it is to witness, though. The power vacuum hose is typically installed into the ductwork via a circle cut out which allows for the power vacuum to put the entire side of the ductwork under a complete and sound vacuum draw. By doing so, every vent attached to the ductwork will have a centrally created vacuum present for proper system containment. From there, various mechanical brushes are sent down the rounds to break and push all debris down to where the power vacuum is sucking. Thereafter, compressed air ranging from 150 psi - 250 psi air washes anything left by the brushes, to thoroughly and completely clean the round. Once all of the supply/heat pipes are cleaned a variety of different brushes, air whips and blow back jetters are employed to source remove all of the bulk matter back towards the power vacuum. This method of cleaning is superior for actually ridding the ductwork of all loose contamination because there is typically no cleaning obstacles presented by the ductwork that the self propelled mechanical and air tools can't over come, as well as the fact that the sheer power of the vacuums not only effectively keeps all the debris contained, but has enough power to pull this debris out of the system.

Advantage: Most thorough mode of cleaning where a positive effect such as increased HVAC system efficiency is realized, increased airflow from supply rounds is realized, less HVAC equipment parts failure is realized (or increased part lifespan occurs) elimination of foul odors presented by isolated incidents where dead animals are presented, animal liquid & solid excretions occur and odor emitting mold/mildew and bacteria occurs and in some cases dust reductions are noticed depending on the amount of contamination that is present in a ventilation system. After this method of cleaning is performed, assuming that the occupant maintains that furnace filter I previously mentioned to manufacturer recommendations, then cleanings may only need to be performed every 3-4 years or even longer if you invest in a high media filter unit.

Disadvantage: This method of cleaning takes longer, the machinery costs more, which means you are charged more than what most contact cleaning companies would charge you. If the company does not adequately train their personnel to perform this cleaning method, then the risk of mishap is greater than a contact cleaning company due to the overwhelming power engaged into the ventilation or HVAC system cleaning project. This cleaning process is a louder process due to using effective and powerful machinery.

Contact Cleaning Method: Average equipment value being used to perform an air duct cleaning: $500.00-$4,000.00 worth of machinery or equipment. This method of cleaning is the safest form of cleaning in ensuring a reduced amount of mishaps and or errors at a job site occurs. Typically speaking, a company will use a glorified shop vac, various carpet cleaning hose attachments in conjunction with carpet cleaning machinery and or even a glorified shop vac with a spinning brush. Most contact cleaning companies will spend 30 minutes to 2 hours in attempting to reach as much ductwork that a person is physically able to reach. A small minority of contact cleaning companies will even make a good go at it and will spend up to 8 hours at an average residential job site. It is even fair to say that if a contact cleaning company spent all day, if the ductwork was completely exposed and if the ductwork was small enough, a contact cleaning company could technically perform a thorough job if the technician was motivated to perform a thorough job.

Advantage: The contact cleaning method of air duct cleaning is usually more affordable in price for the consumer/customer because the equipment is so cheap. The contact cleaning method of air duct cleaning is a safer form of cleaning in ensuring that less mishap and errors occur during a job or project because not much agitation of dirt, dust and debris is being made. Contact cleaning machinery is usually not as loud as power vacuum machinery.

Disadvantage: The contact cleaning method of air duct cleaning is very limited in what dirt, dust and debris is actually pulled out of a ventilation and or HVAC system. 2" diameter vacuum hoses cannot suck up 3" diameter beer cans or soda pop cans. Due to the laws of physics in that a 2" diameter vacuum hose leaves behind all large diameter items, no airflow improvement is ever realized after the service is performed. Clumsy shop vac hoses usually cannot effectively clean through most furnaces burners, hence the ash, dirt, carbon and dust that can be found in these burners typically stay in the burners. This results in no efficiency improvement when cleaning out the burners, because the shop vac hose could not fit inside of the burners to properly clean it as compressed air or nitrogen can. Most ventilation and or HVAC systems have portions of ductwork that is not easily accessible due to portions of the ductwork being drywall finished around. Should this be the case at any given job site, a consumer and or customer must realize that a large portion of ductwork will not be cleaned as a result when the contact cleaning method of air duct cleaning is employed. Typically a shop vac hose can only reach up to 15' before the hose just curls up. Some trunk lines may stretch out to over 100' in distance, which means 15' would be cleaned and 85' would go untouched. In ductwork rounds the shop vac hose can usually only reach up to 2 ½ ' before the shop vac hose gets stuck. 90 degree turns will almost always make the shop vac end its descent in cleaning down a pipe because the shop vac hose cannot be turned without physical intervention. A greater risk of disconnecting pipes occurs due to the physical nature of the contact cleaning method. Also if any home security wiring, telephone wires or low voltage wiring is ever present in the ductwork, the physical nature of the contact cleaning method in air duct cleaning will increase the chances in breaking such wires, whereas air washing will not compromise such wires in any shape way or form. Most contact cleaning companies will recommend that you should have your air ducts cleaned out every year or two, because they know they left enough debris in the ductwork to try to get at it again in a year or two.

Well there you have it folks. Both common methods in air duct cleaning really do have advantages and disadvantages. I attempted to write this article as fair and balanced as I could, using as many facts based on past experiences that I have experienced in performing over 10,000 residential and over 2000 commercial air duct cleanings using both methods of cleaning. Based on my past experiences the advantages and disadvantages in both methods of air duct cleaning that I wrote about are very much so true in my experiences. There are many different cleaning machines and tools out there, which means' that the chore in selecting a thorough air duct cleaner, can be daunting. I must say that experienced technicians in performing an air duct cleaning service can go along way, especially when a company is committed in investing in the more expensive forms of machinery and specialized tools as Lucky Duct, LLC is. In fact our least experienced technician that would show up to your home or office has 3000 + residential air duct cleanings and 850 commercial air duct cleanings performed. Lucky Duct, LLC strives to take better care of our people in pay and benefits than most other companies which is why we have been so fortunate in attracting some of the best tech's out there. Cool machines and tools help, but experienced people can really make the difference in a project result as well.

Visit www.luckyduct.net and enter the air ducts page to view a ton of information on air duct cleaning!

About the Author
Mike Meincke is the Managing Member of Lucky Duct, LLC, which is a full service HVAC and air duct cleaning company that provides services in the Denver metro. Mike possesses an HVAC Supervisors license, is EPA certified for refrigeration, has attended numerous manufacturers technical courses and has over a decade of hands on experience in the HVAC field.

And...

A product that might be a great benefit for duct cleaning and general housework is the Swivel Sweeper G2
It's cordless, battery-pawered (rechargeable), gets into hard-to-reach corner, cleans floors, carpets, tile.  Comes with a charger!

Air conditioning and heating maintenance is largely a matter of economics.

If you manage commercial buildings you know that there are two approaches to HVAC maintenance. One option is what we refer to as "break and fix". The other approach is "scheduled preventive maintenance" with repairs as needed.

While the scheduled approach is intuitively the way to go, there are other factors, not so readily apparent, that reinforce the validity and economy of this approach.

Deferred maintenance (break and fix) is costly in the following ways. • Increased energy consumption • Repairs are usually more costly because of a "cascading" effect in the system, where a small problem tends to cascade to other system components • Occupant comfort and related productivity • Poor reliability resulting in down time • Premature equipment aging and the accelerated need to replace equipment

We can further elaborate on these factors as follows: • Airborne dust and debris particles accumulate on heat transfer surfaces and air filters. This reduces air flow and heat transfer capacity, meaning you get less of the desired cooling, heating or ventilation capacity per unit of energy. This causes the machine to run longer at a lower efficiency rate. • A loose or worn drive belt on the blower can cause the cooling coil to ice over and damage the compressor or over-heat the heat exchanger in winter. This is an example of the "ounce of prevention" adage and the cascading failure principle. • The effects of poor reliability are quite obvious if you are a building manager.

A maintenance program is relatively low in cost and usually involves four visits per year to perform inspections and maintenance. A maintenance check list is developed and followed for each specific building and system. There are examples of 30-year-old equipment which was properly maintained throughout its life and is still operating reliably.

About the Author:
Curt Brekke is the President and Owner of Thermex Corporation, a Minnesota-based commercial HVAC services provider.

• Take advantage of the sun's natural heat:

If you have south-facing windows, open your curtains during the day to allow the sunlight to naturally heat your home. This lessens the need for artificial heat. You can take a lesson from your cat as it basks in the sun's warmth for it's afternoon nap. Make certain to close your curtains at night, however, to reduce the chill from cold windows.

• Cover drafty windows:

Use a heavy-duty, clear plastic sheet on a frame or tape clear plastic film to the inside of your window frames during the cold winter months. Make sure the plastic is sealed tightly to the frame to reduce infiltration. Plastic sheeting is sold by the yard in fabric stores or most hardware departments sell it in pre-measured rolls. Install tight-fitting, insulating drapes or shades on windows that feel drafty after weatherizing. You can reduce heat loss from your room by 10 percent. For maximum effectiveness, draperies should be hung as close to windows as possible.

• Adjust the Temperature

When you're at home and awake, set your thermostat as low as is comfortable. Invest in a portable space heater to warm just the room you're in. This reduces the need to raise the thermostat to heat your entire house. Space heaters are affordably priced. They virtually pay for themselves with the money you'll save before winter is through. When you're asleep, set your thermostat back 10 - 15 degrees. If your chilly, you can always throw another blanket on. Since your asleep, you probably won't notice the difference. When you are gone from the house, especially when you leave for work, turn the thermostat back. A thermostat set back 10 - 15 degrees for the eight hours you're at work, can reduce your heating and cooling bills by ten percent.

• Find and Seal Leaks

Seal the air leaks around utility cut-throughs for pipes, gaps around chimneys, and unfinished spaces behind cupboards and closets. Also look for cracks and gaps around mail chutes, electrical and gas service entrances, cable TV and phone lines, dryer vents, air conditioners and vents and fans. Add caulk or weather-stripping to seal air leaks around leaky doors and windows.

• Maintain Your Heating System:

Schedule a service check and learn what maintenance is required to keep your heating system operating at peak efficiency Replace you furnace filter once a month or as needed. If you have a wood or pellet burning heater, clean the flue vent regularly. Clean the inside of the appliance with a wire brush periodically to ensure maximum performance.

• Reduce Heat Loss from the Fireplace:

Unless you have a fire going, keep the damper closed. An open damper is like keeping a window open all winter. It allows the air in your home to go right up the chimney. When your do use the fireplace, open the dampers in the bottom of the firebox to reduce heat loss. If your fireplace does not have a firebox, open the nearest window just slightly, no more than an inch, and close doors leading into the room. Lower the thermostat setting to approximately 55 degrees. If you never use your fireplace, plug and seal the chimney flue. If you do use the fireplace, install tempered glass doors and a heat-air exchange system that blows warmed air back into the room. Check the seal on the fireplace flue damper and make it as snug as possible. Purchase grates made of C-shaped metal tubes to draw cool air in the room into the fireplace and circulate warm air back into the room. Add caulking around the fireplace hearth.

• Lower Your Water Heating Costs

Water heating is a year round expense that can account for anywhere from 14 - 25 percent of the energy your household consumes. Turn the temperature down on your water heater to the warm setting (120 degrees) which also reduces burns.As the temperature drops and energy costs rise, these simple tips will maximize the energy you'll save this winter. And when it comes to your winter energy bill, the energy you save is equal to the money you'll save.

About the Author
Joni Keith is an accomplished writer having had her first work published at the age of eight. Her love of writing has been fueled by her passion to educate people on renewable energy sources. Please Click Here! to learn more about renewable energy. Click Here! to visit GreenLiving